Author: Sara Azeem
Is organic food truly a luxury for the privileged, or can it become accessible to everyone? This provocative question took centre stage at this session convened by Sustain and the Soil Association. Held amidst a buzzing audience of growers, wholesalers, academics, policymakers, and charity sector representatives, the discussion challenged the notion that organic produce is only for the wealthy, highlighting instead how people across all income levels value organic food.
Bridging the Gap Between Organic Food and Accessibility
The session was chaired by Hannah Gibbs, the Programme Manager of Bridging the Gap, a Sustain programme working with ten pilots across the country, demonstrating ways to enable people on a low income to access climate and nature-friendly food.
One such policy example came from Sophie Kirk, Senior Commercial Manager at Soil Association, who introduced their Organic for All campaign. This campaign aims to upscale organic and make it more affordable, accessible and available to all. She passionately shared the benefits of organic agriculture across climate, nature and health. She highlighted the potential for growth in this sector in the UK: land under organic production has been stuck at 3% in the UK compared to a European average of 10% She added that the current economic model does not reflect negative externalities in the recommended retail price (RRP), forcing consumer to pick up this cost.
Organic in Practice: Stories from the Field
Real-world examples highlighted how creative solutions are making organic food accessible.
Phil Swire, an organic farmer in North East Scotland, supplies Aberdeen City’s schools as part of the Give Peas a Chance pilot project with Bridging the Gap. He shared his journey of transitioning into organic growing and how Scotland’s Good Food Nation Act served as a key inspiration to supply schools.
“We’re putting peas in schools in Aberdeen City, 50 primary schools. 11 secondary schools. That’s approximately 13,500 school meals a day. It’s a start at least, and shows what can be done”
Another Bridging the Gap pilot, the Planet Card in Cardiff, offers subsidised organic produce at farmers’ markets. Carol Alyce Adams, the dynamic manager of Cardiff Farmers Markets, explained the co-design process that developed the pilot. The first ‘Big Ideas’ workshop brought together the general public (self-identified as earning low incomes and from ethnic minority groups), farmers, and public health officials to explore whether people wanted organic food and identify barriers to access.
Key findings revealed a strong preference for organic food, valued for its better taste, health benefits, and environmental impact. To tackle access barriers, the Planet Card was born.
Ethical Wholesale: A Balancing Act
Sean Ruffell addressed the topic of ethical wholesale options for organic produce. He is the Managing Director of Organic North Wholesalers, one of the few large-scale wholesalers of exclusively certified organic fresh produce in the UK. Sean outlined the many ways they support their producers: maintaining a no-haggle policy that allows farmers to set their own prices, processing invoices promptly, and staying loyal to their suppliers. They prioritise small growers—selling their produce first—and actively support those transitioning to organic.
Consumers also benefit from their cooperative model, which keeps prices low by pre-ordering only what’s needed. The ordering process is straightforward, with clear photos and detailed provenance of all produce. Their principles of fairness extend to employees, offering at least the Real Living Wage, permanent contracts, and even a wholesome organic hot meal at work.
Supermarkets and Systemic Change
The reality remains that supermarkets dominate organic sales, accounting for 64% of the market, making them key players in improving affordability and availability. Sophie highlighted positive actions from large retailers: Waitrose and Sainsbury’s significantly over-trade in organic produce and offer extensive ranges, while Lidl is steadily increasing its organic share.
A study conducted by the Soil Association revealed a significant disparity in markups. At the farm gate, organic products had a 27% markup, reflecting the higher costs of organic production, such as increased labour and welfare standards. However, the retail markup soared to 70%, driven by factors like underdeveloped economies of scale and higher margins. Sophie stressed that a major issue is the artificially low pricing of non-organic produce by supermarkets, which exaggerates the cost difference and distorts consumer perceptions of food prices.
Sophie emphasised the need for pricing strategies that strike a balance, making organic food more affordable for consumers while ensuring fair livelihoods for producers.
At farmers’ markets, however, pricing is more transparent. Carol noted that Planet Card participants are often surprised by how much organic produce they can buy directly from farmers, sometimes at comparable or better prices than supermarkets, while enjoying superior quality and diversity. This also creates demand for other organic products that are not subsidised under the scheme, and also sparks conversations about cooking with unfamiliar produce.
Organic for All: The Road Ahead
Public procurement presents another opportunity for growth and is a topic that struck a chord with many in the audience. Sean has recently started working with a few community pantries and a school.
“We need to nourish them (school children) with food, not just feed them with calories”, he said.
Phil echoed this, highlighting how many farmers are ready to supply organic produce but need support in overcoming logistical challenges like delivery and infrastructure.
The session concluded on an optimistic note, with panellists sharing what gives them hope: a growing interest in connecting with farmers and significant market potential. Scotland’s commitment to doubling its organic farmland was shared as an inspiring benchmark, with lots to look forward to in the future.
About the Author
Sara Azeem currently works as a Community Food Partnership Officer in Suffolk, supporting community food projects and coordinating the Suffolk Food Partnership. Her academic background is in economics and global sustainable development, and she has worked on various food policy projects, from developing urban food strategies to researching how to improve access to organic produce for low-income communities. Her passion lies in fostering collaboration and inclusive dialogue among actors in the food system and applying a systems perspective to solve problems.